Hearty Winter Mussels

These rich and creamy mussels are gloriously messy to eat - have a big pile of napkins and a finger bowl to hand.

Ingredients
40g/1½oz butter
2 medium banana shallots, finely diced
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 celery stalks, finely chopped
1 bay leaf
50ml/2fl oz pastis
1 tbsp plain flour
150ml/5fl oz milk
1kg/2lb 4oz mussels, de-bearded and cleaned
300ml/10fl oz white wine
200ml/7fl oz double cream
crusty bread, to serve

Preparation method
Melt the butter in a small saucepan over a low heat and gently cook the shallots, garlic, celery and bay leaf until soft but not brown. Add the pastis and continue cooking until the liquid has evaporated.
Stir in the flour and gently cook for a minute or so then slowly add the milk a little at a time, stirring continuously, to make a smooth, thick sauce.
Meanwhile, tip the mussels and wine into a separate pan, cover with a lid and steam the mussels for 3-4 minutes until the shells have just opened.
Place a colander over the pan containing the white sauce and drain the mussel liquor into the sauce. Return the mussels to their pan and cover with a lid to keep warm.
Working quickly, whisk the mussel liquor into the sauce, bring it to the boil and continue boiling until it is the consistency of double cream. Stir in the cream, pour the sauce into the pot of mussels and serve immediately with crusty bread.
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Octopus in the Sardinian way

Ingredients
50ml/2fl oz olive oil
1 bulb garlic, cut in half horizontally
12 salad onions or large spring onions, white parts only, trimmed
8 medium octopus legs, cut into bite-sized pieces on the diagonal
1 lemon, juice only
2 fresh bay leaves
large sprig fresh thyme, leaves only
8 black peppercorns, left whole
300g/10½oz fresh peas, pods removed (unpodded weight)
generous knob cold butter, or dash olive oil
4 wild fennel fronds, chopped (optional)

Preparation method
Heat the oil in a heavy-based casserole over a high heat. When the oil is just smoking, add the garlic bulb halves, cut-sides down, and the onions, and fry for 2-3 minutes, or until the onions are crisp and golden-brown.
Add the octopus pieces and stir fry for 30 seconds, then reduce the heat to its lowest setting. Squeeze over the lemon juice and sprinkle over the bay leaves, thyme and peppercorns, then cover the pan with a lid and continue to cook for a further two minutes, or until the octopus pieces have released their purple-pink juices.
Continue to simmer the mixture over a low heat for 1 hour and 45 minutes to 2 hours, or until the octopus is tender and offers no resistance when pierced with the point of a knife.
When the octopus has stewed and is tender, add the peas and continue to cook, uncovered, for 8-10 minutes, or until the volume of cooking juices has reduced and the peas are tender. Season, to taste, with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Whisk in the cold butter (or olive oil) until well combined, then sprinkle over the chopped wild fennel fronds, if using. Serve immediately.

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Lamb with cockles

Lamb cooked with cockles is a traditional Welsh dish which makes a wonderfully comforting supper.

Ingredients
600g/1lb 5oz cockles
300ml/10fl oz medium-sweet cider
3 lamb neck fillets
1 tsp thyme, finely chopped
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
generous knob of butter
1 large onion, halved and finely sliced
100g/3½oz bacon lardons
1 tbsp cider vinegar
1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
1 tbsp celery leaves, chopped

Preparation method
Preheat the oven to 170C/325F/Gas 3. Place the cockles in a colander and rinse under a cold running tap, shaking to wash off any grit or to break open any glued together with silt.
Put the cockles and cider into a medium-sized heavy pan. Cover with the lid and steam for 2-3 minutes until the cockles have opened. Strain the cockles, discarding any that remain closed, then strain the liquor again through a fine sieve to remove as much grit as possible.
Season the lamb with the thyme, sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. In a very hot ovenproof pan, melt the butter and quickly brown the lamb all over then remove the meat from the pan and set it aside.
Tip the onion and lardons into the same pan and cook over a moderate heat until the onions are translucent. Pour in the cider vinegar to deglaze the pan then return the meat to the pan and pour in the cockle liquor. Cover the pan with a lid, transfer it to the oven and cook for 45 minutes to one hour.
Meanwhile, pick three-quarters of the cockles from their shells, leaving the remainder in their shells. Add all the cockles to the lamb, warm through then season with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper and stir in the parsley and celery leaves.
Slice the lamb onto warmed plates, ladle over the cockles and liquor and serve with boiled potatoes and Savoy cabbage.
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Roast Shoulder of Lamb with Herbs and Honey

Forget about carving this easy slow-cooked pot roast – pull the fragrant, tender lamb from the bone, rustic style
.

Ingredients

1.4kg/3lb shoulder of lamb, trimmed

handful dried camomile (or contents of 4 camomile teabags)

½ bunch fresh thyme, leaves only

4 sprigs fresh rosemary, leaves only

12 fresh sage leaves, roughly chopped

1 tbsp dried oregano

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 lemon, juice only

1 tbsp good Greek or wild flower clear honey

2 tbsp olive oil

125ml/4fl oz water

Preparation method

Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas 6.

With the tip of a sharp knife, make shallow scores through the outer layer of skin and fat of the lamb shoulder, but not into the meat, cross-hatching the entire surface.

Mix the dried camomile, the thyme, rosemary, sage and oregano together in a bowl. Season well with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Press a handful of the herb mixture into the skin of the lamb, massaging it in well all over the flesh of the lamb.

Sprinkle some of the herb mixture across the bottom of a casserole with a lid. Place the lamb into the casserole, then squeeze the lemon juice over the top, before sprinkling with any remaining herb mix.

Drizzle the honey over the top of the lamb and pour over a little olive oil.

Pour the water into the casserole, then put the lid on. Transfer to the oven and cook for 2½ hours. Check the dish after one hour - the lamb should be taking on a little colour. If the water has evaporated, add a little more to maintain the dish's moisture.

After the 2½ hours cooking the lamb meat should pull away easily from the bone.

Remove from the oven and allow to rest for 4-5 minutes.

To serve, using a knife and fork, pull large pieces of meat away from the bone and arrange on a large serving place. Drizzle the meat with any pan juices and allow guests to help themselves.

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Lee's Brown-bag Fried Chicken

Ingredients
2 chicken breasts (wing bone attached), skin on, cut in two diagonally
2 chicken legs, skin on
2 chicken thighs, skin on
1 litre/1¾ pints sunflower oil, for deep frying

For the coating
7 tbsp plain white flour
1 tbsp dried oregano, crumbled
1 tbsp dried thyme leaves
1 tbsp dried rosemary leaves, crumbled
2 tsp cayenne pepper
2 tsp ground white pepper
1 tbsp sea salt flakes
100ml/3½fl oz evaporated milk
2 free-range eggs, beaten

To serve
French fries
ready-made tomato ketchup, mayonnaise or barbecue sauce (optional)

Preparation method
Rinse the chicken pieces in cold water, then pat dry with kitchen paper.
For the coating, tip the flour, dried herbs, cayenne pepper, white pepper and a pinch of salt into a large, strong polythene bag. Shake until well combined.
In a bowl, beat together the evaporated milk and eggs until well combined. Set aside.
Half-fill a large, heavy-based pan with the oil and heat to 180C/350F (use a kitchen thermometer to check the temperature).
Dip a chicken piece into the milk and egg mixture until completely coated, then place it into the polythene bag containing the flour and herb mixture. Twist the bag closed, trapping in air so that it resembles a balloon, and shake vigorously until the chicken piece is completely coated. Remove the chicken piece from the bag and set aside on a plate. Repeat the process with the remaining chicken pieces.
Carefully lower the coated chicken pieces into the hot oil, one at a time, using tongs. When all of the chicken pieces have been added, the oil should be just bubbling. Cook the chicken in the oil for 18-20 minutes, turning regularly, until crisp and deep golden-brown and completely cooked through. Remove the cooked chicken from the pan using a slotted spoon and set aside to drain on kitchen paper.
To serve, divide the chicken pieces equally among four serving plates. Serve with French fries and dollops of tomato ketchup, mayonnaise or barbecue sauce, if using.
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Trout with Samphire and Beurre Blanc

Ingredients:

For the beurre blanc

140g/5oz chilled unsalted butter, cut into small cubes

2 medium shallots, peeled, thinly sliced

½ garlic clove, peeled, thinly sliced

1 sprig fresh thyme

1 small bay leaf

3 black peppercorns, crushed

150ml/5fl oz dry white wine

1 tsp white wine vinegar

sea salt flakes

1-2 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice

For the trout

2-3 tbsp plain flour

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2-3 tbsp sunflower oil

2 x 200g/7oz thick-cut brown or rainbow trout fillets

For the samphire

2 handfuls marsh samphire, rinsed thoroughly, tough stems removed, broken up into small pieces

1 tbsp butter

1-2 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preparation method

For the beurre blanc, heat one tablespoon of the butter in a non-reactive pan over a medium heat. When the butter has melted, add the shallots, garlic, thyme, bay leaf and peppercorns and fry for 2-3 minutes, or until the shallots have softened but not coloured.

Add the white wine and wine vinegar and bring the mixture to the boil. Continue to boil until most of the liquid has evaporated, then gradually whisk in the chilled butter cubes, one at a time, until all of the butter has been incorporated into the mixture and the sauce has thickened and is glossy.

Strain the beurre blanc through a fine sieve into a warmed bowl, then season, to taste, with salt and pour over the lemon juice. Keep warm. (NB: Do not leave the beurre blanc in too warm a place or the sauce may split.)

For the trout, heat a large frying pan over a high heat. Sprinkle the flour onto a plate and season, to taste, with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Pat the fish fillets fry with kitchen paper.

Dredge the trout fillets, skin-sides down, in the seasoned flour, then shake off any excess flour. Dip the floured sides of the trout fillets in the sunflower oil.

When the pan is hot, add the trout fillets, floured-sides down, and fry for 3-4 minutes, or until more than half of the trout flesh has turned opaque and the skin is crisp and golden-brown. (NB: The skin needs to be flat against the pan to crisp up all over, so press the trout fillets down with a fish slice if the heat makes them arch up.)

Turn the trout fillets over carefully and continue to fry for a further minute, or until the trout fillets are almost cooked through but are still slightly rare in the centre.

Meanwhile, for the samphire, add the samphire to a pan of boiling water (do not add salt) and cook for 2-3 minutes, or until tender. Drain well, then return the samphire to the pan, add the butter and lemon juice and season, to taste, with freshly ground black pepper.

To serve, divide the samphire between two warmed plates. Place the trout on top and spoon over the beurre blanc.
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